The first time I arrived in Ronda was at dusk, almost unintentionally. I was coming down the A-374 from Seville with the motorhome, in April, after a week in Cadiz, and I only intended to spend the night before going on to Malaga the next day. I stayed three days. And since then I have never understood again who comes to Ronda on a morning trip.
Ronda is not visited: it is inhabited. Even if only for a night.
Why Ronda deserves two nights and not two hours
The paradox of Ronda is that most of those who know it have not really seen it. They arrive by tourist bus, take a photo of the New Bridge, eat a hurried menu, return to Malaga or Seville. And they miss what really makes this city a unique place: the silence of the early morning in the Plaza de España, with the Tajo still asleep under the fog; the yellow streetlights illuminating the old town when there are no tourists left; the sound of the swifts at dawn over the mountains. You can only see that if you sleep there. And sleeping there, with the motorhome, is also the closest thing there is to having your own room facing the cliff without paying the price of a hotel with a view.
Hemingway understood this. He spent long periods of time in Ronda, wrote part of “For Whom the Bell Tolls” here and said it was “the place to go if you are going to elope with someone”. Rilke lived one winter in the Hotel Reina Victoria, on the top of the cliff, and said that here he found “the dream scenario”. Orson Welles is buried in an estate on the outskirts. Each of them stayed longer than they had planned. This is no coincidence.
Where to leave the motorhome in Ronda: the Ronda City Area
I start with the practical, which is what really matters to the traveler when he still has the kidneys of the trip glued to the seat. The option we recommend -and where I always park- is the Motorhome Area Ciudad de Ronda, in the street Torero Francisco Romero, within the city center itself.
It is designed for motorhomes, campers and caravans of any size (vehicles over 9 meters are allowed, which is not trivial when you travel in one of those houses with wheels that are hard to get into any street). The rate is 24€ for 24 hours with everything included: electricity, WiFi, water change and access to the site. After the first 24 hours, it’s €6 for each six-hour period. Automatic 24-hour reception – you come and go as you please, without waiting for anyone to open the door.
What makes the area special is not the price (there are cheaper places, there are), but three specific things:
- It is within Ronda, not on the outskirts. Ten minutes walk from Carrera Espinel, the main shopping street. About twenty-five minutes from the New Bridge. That means you can leave the motorhome plugged in and go down to the old town for dinner without taking the car, without taking the bus, without anything. True luxury of the urban motorhomer.
- It has a dog park with shower, washer and dryer, sinks, toilets and showers with hot water, shaded picnic area and children’s area. I leave it noted because there are areas that are disguised parking lots; this one is not.
- There is a bus stop 150 meters away and a gas station (with discount for area users) two kilometers away. Silly details until you need them.
How to get there: all roads entering Ronda converge at the traffic circle next to the Fire Station. From there, follow Avenida de Málaga and turn left at the third street (Pintor Jesús González de la Torre). The area is at the end.
What to see in Ronda in two days: what not to miss
One day in Ronda is a long day if you make the most of it; two allows you to breathe. I tell you my usual route when friends come to stay with me in the motorhome.
The Tagus and the New Bridge
Starting here is mandatory even if you know the photo by heart. The New Bridge was completed in 1793 after forty years of work and a first attempt that collapsed killing fifty people. It is ninety-eight meters high over the Guadalevín river. What the postcard does not convey is the physical sensation of leaning over the parapet: an emptiness that gives equal parts vertigo and respect. I recommend seeing it twice – once at noon and once at sunset, when the sun lights up the walls of the Tagus and everything turns orange for fifteen minutes. Better on weekdays, better early in the morning.
The Plaza de Toros and the Real Maestranza
Inaugurated in 1785, it is one of the oldest bullrings in Spain and the cradle of modern bullfighting – here Pedro Romero codified the rules of what we understand today as bullfighting. You can visit the bullring, the corrals, the museum and the armory. Even if you are not a bullfighting fan (I am not), the architecture of the sandstone building and the symmetry of the bullring are worth the entrance fee. The ticket office is in the bullring itself.
The Moorish King’s House and the Forestier Gardens
An eighteenth century house with a secret underground: the water mine, a staircase of 187 steps dug into the rock during the Nasrid domination to bring up water from the river in case of siege. Going down and up those steps is a serious physical exercise (not suitable for everyone, it’s good to know) but the sensation of stepping out at the bottom of the Tagus from inside the rock is like nothing else. The gardens designed by Jean-Claude Nicolas Forestier in 1912 are the perfect snack after the effort.
The Arab Baths
In the lower part of the Tajo, next to the old bridge. They date from the 13th century and are among the best preserved of Al-Andalus. The natural lighting through the starry skylights in the ceiling of the warm room is the reason why you deserve the detour even if you are tired of monuments.
The Viewpoint of Aldehuela and the Alameda del Tajo
If you only have an hour before you leave, go to the Alameda del Tajo. It’s a 19th century tree-lined promenade that ends in a balcony over the cliff with views of the serranía and, on clear days, even Sierra Bermeja. Bring a book or bring nothing. This is Ronda at its purest: the postcard without the postcard.
Four getaways based in Ronda
One of the advantages of staying two or three nights in the Ronda City Area is that you can leave the motorhome plugged in and make day trips by car or bus. These are the ones I recommend the most.
Setenil de las Bodegas (20 km, 25 minutes by car)
The most photogenic white village in Andalusia and probably the strangest: the houses are literally tucked under the rock, and there are entire streets roofed by the mountain itself. Setenil can be toured in a morning, eat well (chacinas serranas), take pictures, and return. It does not have much more, but what little it has is not seen anywhere else in Spain.
Grazalema and Zahara de la Sierra (40-50 km, white villages route)
Two villages in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park that, together, are the epitome of what people imagine when they say “white villages”. Grazalema has the Pinsapar (an endemic fir forest unique in Spain); Zahara has a Nasrid castle perched over a turquoise reservoir. The road between the two is one of the most beautiful in Andalusia. If you are going to do the route, leave early: there are stretches where crossings with large motorhomes are fair.
La Cueva del Gato (12 km, 15 minutes)
A natural spring in the municipality of Benaoján, where the river Gaduares springs directly from a cave with a waterfall of turquoise waters. The access is easy (flat road of one kilometer) and you can bathe in summer. I recommend avoiding it on weekends in July and August: it gets crowded. Any day during the week it is an almost empty paradise.
El Caminito del Rey (50 km, 1 hour)
The footbridge hanging in the Gaitanes Gorge is probably the most spectacular day trip you can do from Ronda. Important: you have to book your ticket well in advance (weeks, in high season) on the official website – you can’t buy it at the ticket office. The complete tour is about seven kilometers and lasts between three and four hours. There is a shuttle bus between the two ends.
When to come to Ronda by motorhome
My opinion, after coming in all seasons: the best times are spring (mid-April to June) and autumn (September to early November). The temperatures are mild, the days are long, and the old town is not overcrowded. Summer can be tough: at midday it is very hot in the mountains, the terraces of the Tajo get crowded, and parking in the center becomes difficult (another reason to opt for the area).
There are two times of the year that deserve a separate visit:
- Ronda Romántica (second week of May): three days in which the city recreates its romantic period of the 19th century, with locals dressed in period costumes, market, shows, a Goyesque bullfight. It is necessary to reserve the area well in advance because it fills up.
- Christmas market and nativity scene (December): Ronda in winter is another world. Much less tourism, a secluded atmosphere, the streets of the old town illuminated. The Christmas market is set up in the Plaza Duquesa de Parcent and compensates for the relative cold.
The Feria de Pedro Romero, in September, is another strong moment, but more for those who have already seen Ronda calmly; if it is your first time, better avoid those days because of the overcrowding.
Frequently asked questions about Ronda by motorhome
Where can I park my motorhome in Ronda?
The most recommended option is the Motorhome Area Ciudad de Ronda, located in the street Torero Francisco Romero. It is within the city center, 10 minutes walk from the shopping center and 25 minutes from the New Bridge. It has all the services (electricity, water, water drainage, showers, WiFi) and admits vehicles of more than 9 meters.
How much does the City of Ronda Motorhome Area cost?
The rate is 24€ for 24 hours, with electricity, WiFi and water change included in the price. After the first 24 hours, the cost is €6 for each additional 6-hour period. Hot showers cost €1 per 5 minutes.
Is it possible to walk to the center of Ronda from the area?
Yes, the Ronda City Area is a 10-minute walk from Carrera Espinel, the main shopping street, and about 25 minutes from the New Bridge and the historic center. There is also a bus stop 150 meters from the area for those who prefer not to walk.
Does the Motorhome Area Ciudad de Ronda allow pets?
Yes, the area admits pets and has a specific area for them, including a dog park with a shower. It is important to respect the rules of coexistence and keep the common area clean.
How many days are needed to visit Ronda by motorhome?
At least two days: one for the old town and the main monuments (Puente Nuevo, Plaza de Toros, Casa del Rey Moro, Baños Árabes), and another for an excursion to Setenil de las Bodegas, the white villages or the Caminito del Rey. With three days you can include several of these getaways at your leisure.
What is the best time of the year to visit Ronda by motorhome?
Spring (mid-April to June) and autumn (September to early November) are the best seasons: mild temperatures, long days and less mass tourism. December is also interesting for the Christmas market and the municipal nativity scene. Summer can be hot and more crowded.
